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pre-flight inspection should include
you—being improperly dressed and
making a series of short exposures
will fatigue you more quickly,
especially when the clothes you are
wearing are bulky and awkward to
move in. Maintain blood sugar levels
as more calories are consumed in the
cold (you need 3000 calories a day in
Norway). If the air is very dry (like in
the Arctic), you will lose fluids more
quickly through the usual ways, but
especially breathing. Losing 10%
causes cause delirium, and a 20%
loss is fatal. You could try and eat
snow, but the conversion to water
takes more energy, so melt it first.
Preserve your machine’s heat as
much as possible on the ground, by
covering vital areas as soon as
possible after landing, not opening
and closing doors too much, etc. It’s
very important that it does not get so
cold that it won’t start again, so you
might consider starting up every
couple of hours or so, which will
both use fuel and battery capacity –
certainly, in the average car, it takes
about half an hour’s driving to
replace the energy taken by one start,
and I’m sure it’s worse with a
helicopter – a depleted battery will
sooner or later result in an expensive
hot start. At the very least, remove
the battery and keep it warm. If you
see fan heaters around the helipad,
they are for putting under the covers
to keep the engine and gearbox
warm (all night). Light bulbs are
good, too, around the FCU.
Special attention should also be paid
to the following:
· That correct oil and grease is
used and special equipment is
fitted to keep engines warm.
For Bell 206s, at least, below –
40°C, your oil must meet MIL
L7808 specifications, and you
will need fuel additives in all
other than JP4 below –18 °C.
· Use deicing fluid if possible—
scrapers do not leave pretty
results. Fluid, if it's thick
enough, helps prevent further
ice forming (see Icing). Don't
forget to fit engine blanks, etc.
before using them. Deicing
fluids are also good degreasers.
234 Operational Flying
· That windscreens are defrosted
(keep moving a mechanical
heater around, or it might melt
the perspex). Don't forget to
have a cloth handy for wiping
the windscreen from the inside
when it mists up.
· You have proper tie-downs and
pitot/engine covers, static vent
plugs, etc.
· That heating systems are
working properly and don't
allow exhaust into the cabin (if
you get regular headaches,
check for carbon monoxide
poisoning).
· De- and anti-icing equipment is
working properly and that all
breather pipes, etc. are clear of
anything that could freeze.
· That the aircraft has not been
cold soaked below minimum
operating temperatures. If so,
there are particular (and tedious)
ways of starting the machine
again, which essentially involve
preserving the heat from
repeated attempted starts so the
engine compartment can warm
up, with a ten-minute gap
between each, removing and
replacing engine blankets every
time. In case you were
wondering, cold soaking occurs
when the aircraft and fuel
become colder than the ambient
temperature, which can happen
over a cold night or at high
altitudes, and it becomes a
problem because heat is
conducted more quickly away
from precipitation, making ice
formation easier. A 737 took off
from Toronto, which was cold,
and arrived in Nassau, which
was warm, with heavy frost on
the upper wings (it was melted
by refuelling with warmer fuel).
· That frost, ice and snow has
been removed, particularly on
lift-producing surfaces. If you
leave hoar frost on the fuselage
(only if it can be seen through),
beware of flying into cloud
where more will stick. It must be
removed from where its
dislodgement could cause
ingestion, e.g. engine cowlings.
· Check particle separators as
water seepage may have frozen
inside the engine, resulting in
abnormally high N1 and JPT
readings.
· The skids of a helicopter are not
frozen to the ground. On a solid
surface, you might be able to
rock it using the tail. Otherwise,
use the pedals with a little
collective just before takeoff.
· Unstick windscreen wipers and
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