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2.3.3 Wiring panels
Modularity and ease of troubleshooting are a goal of my simulator design.
For this reason, I wanted all of my panels to be removable without much
hassle. To accomplish this, I run wires from all of my switches, lights,
rotaries, etc., from each of my switch panels, to a small circuit card where the
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wires are attached to a multi-pin ribbon cable connector. Switches and lights
go to separate connectors since they will terminate at different EPIC
Modules. I use the ABA/64BTN for switches and the EMDA PRO34 for my
lights. This wiring system allows me to disconnect a panel very easily and
troubleshoot or test the individual components without disturbing the wiring
inside my simulator.
2.3.3.1 Wiring panels is one of the
most time consuming and critical parts
of building a simulator in my view. If
not done properly, it will lead to a lot of
time troubleshooting when something
stops working. Below is a chronology
of the wiring of my F-16 Main Power
panel. I hope this chronology gives
you some ideas of how you should
perform this critical step when building
your own simulator. A good place to
start is to gather up the parts you’ll
need just to make sure you don’t have to stop to order a part in the middle of
your wiring project.
2.3.3.2 Before touching any
hardware, I made a wiring plan for my
panel. Below is an excerpt from my
LeftCableTrack.xls excel spreadsheet.
As you can see, I track the position of
the switch on the panel; the actual
cable and wire connected to the
switch; the cable wire position on my
ribbon cable connector; and the
module, row, and bit of the switch on
my 64BTN. All of this data can be
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predefined once I know how many, and what type of switches are on a panel
and therefore what size ribbon cable I’ll need. I also keep my rotary
encoders, potentiometers and lights on separate connectors so I must know
how many of these I have also. For a given panel, I will have from 1 to 4
connectors, depending on what devices are included on the panel. Here are
a couple of pointers:
a. An on/off switch or two-position rotary only needs one row in the table
b. A multi-position rotary (example: 4-position rotary) needs the same
number of rows, as there are positions on the rotary (except for a 2 position
rotary that only needs 1 row)
c. When using the 64BTN, you can use diodes with Rotary switches to
reduce the number of bits required
d. Potentiometers are programmed directly into EPICenter, therefore they
appear in a separate part of the table
e. Lights and LEDs are kept separate since they connect to a different ribbon
cable
f. Rotary Encoders are kept separate since they connect to a different ribbon
cable
Connector Cable #:
Button Name
64BTN
Position Module Scan Bit
Panel
Row
Row
Position
Panel
Cable # Wire Color
Connector
Position
Main_Pwr_On 8 2 0 7 1 1 1 G 1
Main_Pwr_Off 9 2 1 0 1 1 1 R 2
FLCS_Pkg 10 2 1 1 1 2 1 Y 3
Caution_Reset 11 2 1 2 2 1 2 G 4
STBY_Gen 12 2 1 3 2 2 2 R 5
EPU_Gen 13 2 1 4 3 1 2 Y 6
Batt_Acft 14 2 1 5 4 1 3 G 7
Batt_FLCS 15 2 1 6 4 2 3 R 8
Common 3 Y 10
Connector Cable #:
Light Name
PRO32
Position Module Scan Bit
Panel
Row
Row
Position
Panel
Cable # Wire Color
Connector
Position
FLCS_Pwr_Led 2 2 2 4 G 1
STBY_Gen_Led 2 2 3 4 R 2
EPU_Gen_Led 2 2 4 4 Y 3
Batt_Acft_Led 2 2 5 5 G 4
Batt_FLCS_Led 2 2 6 5 R 5
Common 5 Y 10
Module: Main_Pwr
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2.3.3.3 Once the cable track is done, it’s
time to work on the hardware. I start with
a Radio Shack printed circuit board (PCB
276-150) that has holes sized for my
ribbon connectors (mouser.com). These
PCBs are almost perfect; however, when
I plug in my ribbon connectors, I have to
solder a small wire to the pins on one row
of connector pins (see photo below).
Once I install the connector and install my
jumper wires, then I’m ready for the wires
from the panel.
2.3.3.4 Now I wire my panel according to the cable track. I wire the
common terminals together on my switches first; then I connect all the
switch-able terminals to the cables. Next I wire the positive terminals of my
LEDs together and then wire the negative side to my cables. Since I use a 3-
conductor cable with a green, red, and yellow wire, I can keep things straight
by always using the wires in the same order. I also mark the cables
numerically so I am able to fine the exact wire for any switch if I have a
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